Cleaning My Intake Valves (Semi DIY)

[a-easy]

Originally Posted by xcrazydx

You can't be serious. Buy a Honda or something

Sent from SKYROCKET
StockMOD v2.0
Stock-ish 0.3

What's your problem? I'm just asking a simple question. Go post your pointless post in another thread. Jack.

[adamgti]

Originally Posted by a-easy

After reading this thread I feel like im screwed, I installed my BHS catch can after 55,xxx miles or so.. I dont even know how to drain the damn thing. What happens if you dont clean the valves? shorter Engine life ?

Misfires, running rough, poor mileage, sad panda.

[Zach L]

Does what he ^^^ said

Makes for a bumpy idle, decreases power, reduces gas mileage. It's not unique to the 2.0T; virtually all car companies have started using direct injection on their newer engines. Of course they don't care though - as soon as they get their good gas mileage ratings, better emissions ratings, and effecient power ratings, they couldn't care less!

Once these cars start getting past 20-30k miles all those figures head south because the intake valves and ports have heavy build up.

[nhbubba]

Toyota apparently uses a combination of direct and port injection to-among other things-avoid this.

http://www.pressroom.com.au/press_ki...1000&kitID=222

The Lexus D-4S (Direct-injection 4-stroke Superior-version) system has two injectors per cylinder - one injector in the combustion chamber and a second mounted in the intake port.

The Scion FR-S has this.

[Wild Hare]

Originally Posted by Phil@BSH

Looks like you did some work there. Good news is with the race can installed you wont have to do that again

So, are you saying that the "race can" will totally eliminate any future carbon build up?

[adamgti]

Ha

[Zach L]

BSH's "race can", or any other VTA catch can or exhaust-routed system, will keep 100% of PCV gases from going back into the engine.

That said, some have suggested this not being able to stop 100% of buildup on the valves, maybe just 98% or more. Reason is, trace amounts of oil weep down the valve stems from the valve guides as they move up and down as the engine runs. This is necessary and unstoppable, but I'd supect the amount to be negligable.

I plan to confirm/investigate this in the future. I ran my a factory PCV for a few thousand miles after cleaning my valves last time. I'll need to reclean them now that I have an exhaust-routed setup and check again after 10k miles or so. It takes me about 6 months to do 10k miles.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Originally Posted by Zach L

BSH's "race can", or any other VTA catch can or exhaust-routed system, will keep 100% of PCV gases from going back into the engine.

That said, some have suggested this not being able to stop 100% of buildup on the valves, maybe just 98% or more. Reason is, trace amounts of oil weep down the valve stems from the valve guides as they move up and down as the engine runs. This is necessary and unstoppable, but I'd supect the amount to be negligable.

I plan to confirm/investigate this in the future. I ran my a factory PCV for a few thousand miles after cleaning my valves last time. I'll need to reclean them now that I have an exhaust-routed setup and check again after 10k miles or so. It takes me about 6 months to do 10k miles.

did you not read this thread?

[Zach L]

Originally Posted by ViRtUaLheretic

did you not read this thread?

Yes, and I've posted in it many times. I believe part of Staulker's buildup that occured AFTER the valve cleaning could have been avoided.

When he cleaned the valves the first time, there was nothing mentioned about him cleaning out the intercooler/charge pipes. When I clean valves on cars, I try to clean these parts as best I can. Sometimes you'll pull the hoses and oil/sludge will pour out. This mess comes not from the front PCV port, but the stuff that traveled out the rear port and into the intake pre-turbo, then all the way through this system. Of course much of it is condensing/evaporating as the engine cools/heats. Of course he wasn't adding to this once the VTA can was installed, but the supply could have gradually been evaporating off over thousands of miles, sticking to those valves.

[Elliott]

Great thread n great work op.

[vath]

subscribed...

[MKVMONTEGO]

I work for a Audi service department. You guys are all gonna laugh when you hear about the tool that Audi recommends you use to clean the throttle and guess waht its home made.

you will need
32 zip ties ( mediaum about 6-8 inch long)
and duck tape.

take 30 zip ties all facing same way bunch them together and zip them together with the 2 left over zip ties. Then wrap the side with the clamp type end with duck tape. and use the loose end with brakleen to get all the carbon out. Seems pretty weird but email me dannyf0503@gmail.com and ill send you picture of what it actually looks like....

hope this helped...........

[vath]

^^^

That's wild/crazy multi octipus tentical cleansingly cool

[MKVMONTEGO]

Originally Posted by vath

^^^

That's wild/crazy multi octipus tentical cleansingly cool

It actually sounds a bit ridiculous but works miracles..

[sikkony]

Post the picture here. Attachment.

[MKVMONTEGO]

il do it when i get home. my work computer doesnt allow me to post it...

[joegtiderosa]

did the zipties 2 weeks back worked amazing

[Zach L]

Originally Posted by MKVMONTEGO

I work for a Audi service department. You guys are all gonna laugh when you hear about the tool that Audi recommends you use to clean the throttle and guess waht its home made.

you will need
32 zip ties ( mediaum about 6-8 inch long)
and duck tape.

take 30 zip ties all facing same way bunch them together and zip them together with the 2 left over zip ties. Then wrap the side with the clamp type end with duck tape. and use the loose end with brakleen to get all the carbon out. Seems pretty weird but email me dannyf0503@gmail.com and ill send you picture of what it actually looks like....

hope this helped...........

This is great!

I've actually used pipe cleaners, a modified lug nut/bolt cleaner, and.or craftsman metal picks/hook set... accompanied with compressed air and B12 Chemtool.

Glad to hear there's a "professional" tool recommended lol. Thanks for the info!

[Dennis Moeller]

Great write up, I'll definately have a go at this! Cheers. I have the 140 hp 1.4TSI Twincharger but there's probably the same buildup in my engine. I remapped it too so that won't help prevent buildup :-)

About cleaning the "backside" of the body throttle flap which I'll bet will be clogged up with black stuff too.. and cause f. ex. rough idle. Can't you turn on the ignition and press down the gas pedal and keep it down while you switch of the ignition and remove the key. I believed I did that one time on my S3 8L because I didn't wanted to mess with the flap motor.. The flap was open and easy to clean.. Different engine on the S3 etc, so if I'm way out then just forget this tip

Edit: or get someone to press down the gas pedal with the ignition on and then unplug the throttle body..? Nah, maybe not??

[boki]

Originally Posted by MKVMONTEGO

il do it when i get home. my work computer doesnt allow me to post it...

^Can you please post some photos...thanks

[tylerandreas]

What about a wire brush when cleaning the plates? Will they scratch it up to much, or will they be fine? And seriously, hook us up with the zip tie stuff.

[Elliott]

Regarding the zip tie method, I found a thread over on an Audi forum with pics so thought i'd share.
Here