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BSH engine mounts finally installed, impressions...

TheJakofallTrads

Car-less
Location
Bronxville, NY
Car(s)
Audi RS3
Would there be any issues over time to the stock engine mounts if you only changed out the pendulum mount rather than changing all of them at the same time?

I'm with Sunny, it's not advised to change just the side engine or the transmission mount by themselves, but many people upgrade the pendulum and leave the other mounts stock. I had the ECS Tuning mount for 15k before I upgraded the other mounts.

That being said, if you can afford to upgrade all of the mounts at the same time it's a huge difference in feel and performance.
 

soze

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County, CA
Car(s)
Something Else
I'm with Sunny, it's not advised to change just the side engine or the transmission mount by themselves, but many people upgrade the pendulum and leave the other mounts stock. I had the ECS Tuning mount for 15k before I upgraded the other mounts.

That being said, if you can afford to upgrade all of the mounts at the same time it's a huge difference in feel and performance.

Ah cool. I've been thinking of doing the pendulum mount for a while now.

Also been looking at the BFI Stage 1 engine/transmission mounts. But that's really far down the road for me.
 

vegasGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Vegas
VF mounts are softer than BSH's. There's only one Delrin mount readily available in the states that I know of, and it's a beast.

BFI Delrin Engine Mount
Not from what I remember reading. Iirc the bsh mounts are around 88 on durometer and vf are around 95.
they are also made of poly vs the rubber like material of bsh. I know of the bfi mounts way to hard for my needs or liking.
 

TheJakofallTrads

Car-less
Location
Bronxville, NY
Car(s)
Audi RS3
Not from what I remember reading. Iirc the bsh mounts are around 88 on durometer and vf are around 95.
they are also made of poly vs the rubber like material of bsh. I know of the bfi mounts way to hard for my needs or liking.

All VF mounts are 75a. The BSH side and transmission are 78a, and the pendulum is 88a. BFI mounts are 65a, (Stage 1) 85a, (Stage 2) and Delrin (Stage 3) their dogbone insert in 90a.
 

dave80

Go Kart Champion
Location
Chicago
Im still waiting for mine bsh mounts to get here, but it looks like fedex lost the package. Box arrived in Chicago last Friday, but it didnt go out for delivery yet. Called bsh on Wednesday and told them about that, but haven't heard back from them. Kinda sucks.
 

GodSquadMandrake

Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Location
Minneapolis
It doesn't really matter the durometer rating of your mounts if the dogbone mount is still stock or just has an insert shoved in there to fill up the holes. The engine and transmission mount are on the side and don't do anything to stop the torque from pitching the engine. The real movement and rocking of your engine is going to be controlled by the dog bone mount. I'm not just saying that theoretically either. I have the full BSH mounts in and I still have plenty of slop in my drive train, whiteline WALK installed and everything too.
 

ViRtUaLheretic

╭∩╮(︶__︶&#6
Location
KC MO
Car(s)
2009 VW GTI
It doesn't really matter the durometer rating of your mounts if the dogbone mount is still stock or just has an insert shoved in there to fill up the holes. The engine and transmission mount are on the side and don't do anything to stop the torque from pitching the engine. The real movement and rocking of your engine is going to be controlled by the dog bone mount. I'm not just saying that theoretically either. I have the full BSH mounts in and I still have plenty of slop in my drive train, whiteline WALK installed and everything too.

I have to completely disagree, I installed the Motor & transmission mount in the engine bay first and then installed the pendulum mount later.
a Majority of the slop was absorbed from the motor & transmission mount while I hardly noticed anything from the addition of the pendulum mount.
Not to dog on the pendulum mount as from what I have read it is a great piece when used by itself, but you get a majority of the gains from the motor & transmission mounts.

The durometer of the material used in the mounts will also play a major role, BFI makes 3 different stages with varying durometers.
Also people have swapped torque mount insert with different durometers and reported different feelings.

My motor now feels completely planted, and I am eyeballing the WALK as I want to get rid of the lift when I mash the fun pedal.
 

vegasGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Vegas
2nd the majority of the slop is gone that was still present with the dogbone. It also quelled almost all hesitations between shifts and almost all of the wheel hop. There is a very tiny bit of slop when driving very hard but its night and day difference. If i had to rate it i would say 90-95% of the slop is gone.
 

GodSquadMandrake

Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Location
Minneapolis
I'm getting really fed up with this slop in the engine so I decided to do something about it and remembered when my buddy Ted made his own poly mounts years ago. He actually made a sweet thread on it:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1188960



Well you get the idea, pretty simple right?

I'm just going to take the lower engine mount bushings out of the subframe, remove the rubber, fill with 94a poly, and reinstall. The front bushing between the pendulum mount and the engine is a little more tricky. I might have to remove it, cut in half, make a 2 piece mold with plaster of paris, then pour the molds, trim and re-install. Either way I think it'll be worth it. The BSH mounts are great, but the missing link is having the same solid poly bushings on the rear engine mount. I know 94 is a bit extreme for the durometer but I enjoy having my teeth rattled. I used to have a solid aluminum mount on my MK2 so I know what trouble I'm getting myself into. Hey if it goes well I might just make some molds on the steering rack bushings and rear control arm bushings. Powerflex, Whiteline, and Energy suspension have been lagging and haven't made em yet so I'll just do my own.
 

vegasGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Vegas

GodSquadMandrake

Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Location
Minneapolis
Isnt the whiteline walk kit doing the same basic thing?

With the WALK I noticed less lift under throttle so there is less understeer accelerating out of corners, and also the cornering response is sharper and crisper. This last mod is more for the engine. There is more instantaneous throttle response, less wheel hop, less bounce under hard shifting or down shifting, and the shifting is just flatter. It's hard to explain but it's less of an "event" to shift gears. Everything happens faster so you don't have to be as easy with the clutch and throttle, faster smoother shifting essentially. It's like I can be more aggressive with the shifting and not have as much weight transfer
 

vegasGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Vegas
With the WALK I noticed less lift under throttle so there is less understeer accelerating out of corners, and also the cornering response is sharper and crisper. This last mod is more for the engine. There is more instantaneous throttle response, less wheel hop, less bounce under hard shifting or down shifting, and the shifting is just flatter. It's hard to explain but it's less of an "event" to shift gears. Everything happens faster so you don't have to be as easy with the clutch and throttle, faster smoother shifting essentially. It's like I can be more aggressive with the shifting and not have as much weight transfer

I see now i was looking at it on my blackberry before. So its just the rear mount you are solidifying. Interesting indeed. I do still feel some slop as i said. I completely understand what you mean about the shifting difference based on the change with the mounts ect. If this eliminates all slop i might have to consider it as a future project. For now more work than i am willing to do on my DD.
 
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