I just swapped out my intake cam spool valve in 15 minutes thanks to another thread in here. Luckily, I was actually able to find my exact revision so I didn’t have to bother with swapping guts from on spool valve to another.
Interestingly, the spool valve that was in there was able to be removed by hand. It was finger tight and came right out, not sure what that’s about. I had the exhaust camshaft replaced last year and only thing I can think of it wasn’t tightened correctly by the shop that took the timing stuff apart. I stupidly jumped to replacing the whole camshaft last year without realizing you could swap the inside of the adjuster into the old casing and wasted a lot of money. I wasn’t about to make that mistake again.
Just curious on anyone’s thoughts on why that would be so loose. My only thought aside from improper assembly is maybe the magnet got stuck in the open position which caused it to work itself loose? The car has been running great until I drove it hard about a week ago and had some nasty intermittent rattling along with the car oddly idling at like 1500rpm, no ac on or anything like that. I can’t imagine I’d be driving issue free for a year with that valve that loose for that long.
Going to swap the magnet too, just for the hell of it. Plus it will give me a reason to recheck the torque on the adjuster after some driving. It was quiet on test drive just now but seemed to be correlated with driving hard which I would think is when the magnet is engaged more.
Also relevant, I had a code for intake camshaft timing that was triggered on the day I noticed the noise. I did the whole “chain stretch” check with OBDeleven and that was within spec, so I’m fairly certain the timing chain rattle was associated with the intake cam timing.
Not necessarily looking for an answer here, just curious on others thoughts more than anything
Interestingly, the spool valve that was in there was able to be removed by hand. It was finger tight and came right out, not sure what that’s about. I had the exhaust camshaft replaced last year and only thing I can think of it wasn’t tightened correctly by the shop that took the timing stuff apart. I stupidly jumped to replacing the whole camshaft last year without realizing you could swap the inside of the adjuster into the old casing and wasted a lot of money. I wasn’t about to make that mistake again.
Just curious on anyone’s thoughts on why that would be so loose. My only thought aside from improper assembly is maybe the magnet got stuck in the open position which caused it to work itself loose? The car has been running great until I drove it hard about a week ago and had some nasty intermittent rattling along with the car oddly idling at like 1500rpm, no ac on or anything like that. I can’t imagine I’d be driving issue free for a year with that valve that loose for that long.
Going to swap the magnet too, just for the hell of it. Plus it will give me a reason to recheck the torque on the adjuster after some driving. It was quiet on test drive just now but seemed to be correlated with driving hard which I would think is when the magnet is engaged more.
Also relevant, I had a code for intake camshaft timing that was triggered on the day I noticed the noise. I did the whole “chain stretch” check with OBDeleven and that was within spec, so I’m fairly certain the timing chain rattle was associated with the intake cam timing.
Not necessarily looking for an answer here, just curious on others thoughts more than anything